Here are five of the most common styles: 1) Library-Style Frame-and-PanelĪchieve with: Hardwood veneer plywood, wood moldings, wood stain and varnish. Of course, an infinite number of other looks can be achieved by mixing and matching materials and adapting the fundamental skills to your particular project. The table below illustrates some of the typical possibilities and suggests what it takes to achieve each. Design StylesĪ great variety of off-the-rack products that can be classified as "wall paneling" are available, so the first step is decide which is best suited to achieving the look you want and how much time and effort you want to put into the project. To achieve a high-quality finished appearance, the devil is in the details. Doing the job right means thinking through the design, planning, wall preparation, layout, fastening and finishing thoroughly. But when installation details are sloppy, the impression is lost. When paneling is done right, it reflects good taste and a sense of craft. I used them for my bathroom shiplap and they worked great! There Is Such a Thing as Too Many Nail Holes (when you’re the one filling them…)įor installation, we nailed each board to the walls using a nail gun (being sure to get some nails into studs) in addition to applying Liquid Nails on the back of each board.Installing wood wall paneling is a great way to add interesting tones and texture to room decor. If not, hire this job out to a contractor if you don’t have your own table saw.Īnother option that’s become available since doing my shiplap walls is pre-cut mdf boards like. If you’re going to try having them do it for you, I would try just one sheet first to check that you’re getting a nice clean and even cut. Lowes and Home Depot will cut your plywood sheets into strips for you for a small fee and while I know some people have had this done successfully, I would definitely proceed with caution – their saws are made for doing rough cuts and often leave jagged and/or uneven edges. The cheapest way to get thin wood shiplap strips at an exact height is to cut them out of ¼″ plywood or MDF sheets (I went with maple plywood sheets because they seemed to be the smoothest of the ¼″ plywood options at Lowes). Just don’t forget to take the spacing in between the boards into account when making your calculations! I ended up going with a height of 6 ¼″ for mine. So measure the space between the crown molding and baseboard and figure out a good height to cut the boards so that they fill the space exactly. The other prepwork that’s a definite must is a little bit of math – you want all of your boards to be the same height rather than getting to the end and realizing that you’re going to have an awkward thin strip at the bottom. I used Farrow & Ball White for my shiplap paint – you can read more on it and other great whites in my post on the best white paint colors. Truth be told it took me a LONG time to pre-paint them so I’m not sure if this part of my prepwork was a time-saver or not in the end.
I also painted the top and bottom edges of each shiplap board before it went up on the wall because I knew it would be a little nightmarish to try and paint the edges by sticking a paintbrush through the small space between the boards once they were hung. Seeing this lovely light blue wall color (which is what they looked like before doing this project) between the white boards wouldn’t have been such a great look! Why? Because there’s a small gap between the boards where you can see the wall and you definitely don’t want a different color showing through. Prep work for a shiplap wall project is key! First off, you want to paint the walls in the room the same color that you’re going to paint your shiplap. So much easier! Shiplap Prep: Paint Your Walls & Do Your Math! Umm… no thank you! We went with plywood strips that are only ¼″ deep so we were able to leave all of the molding in the room in place and simply butt the wood strips up against it.
#Cheapest material to cover wall studs install#
But also, since true shiplap boards are about ¾″ deep, it means that you have to remove ALL of your molding (baseboards, crown molding, door trim) to install “real” shiplap and then reinstall the molding back on top of it. There’s definitely a significant cost savings to creating the look of shiplap with plywood strips instead of using true shiplap boards so that’s one reason that faux is the way to go.
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